After the death-defying Nasca Lines flights, I was really looking forward to spending a few "tranquillo" days in Arequipa. I was not at all disappointed by the city, which was calm and beautiful and interesting. On our first morning, I visited the Museo Santuarios Andinos to see "Juanita the Ice Maiden". Juanita is the frozen body of an Inca girl who was sacrificed 500 years ago on a nearby mountain. Since her body froze immediately after she died, her internal organs are all completely intact. Very bizarre, but actually really cool.
In the afternoon, I did a really incredible "Reality Tour". We visited a stone quarry, where workers live in deplorable conditions, a cooperative day-care, and a common kitchen. Throughout the tour, we were told all about Peru's social and economic problems, the problems with corruption, and why cocaine is such an important part of the economy. Our guide, Miguel, was really amazing because every year he chooses a new day-care and kitchen to support for one year and help them get started. After a year, he leaves them completely self-sufficient and moves on to another. It was a really amazing tour and extremely interesting.
That evening, we drove to Chivay and spent the night there. In the morning, we went to visit Colca Canyon, which is one of the biggest canyons in the world, to see the flight of the Condors. I'm not that into birds, but they are pretty cool because they are gigantic (the heaviest flying bird in the world) and they don't flap their wings, they only glide. At Colca Canyon, we also learnt a lot about the local indigenous lifestyle. That afternoon, we drove to Puno, where I am now.
On our first morning in Puno, we took boat out onto Lake Titicaca, which is just incredible. It is the largest and highest navigable lake in the world and absolutely breathtaking. We visited a reed island, which is a man-made floating island where indigenous families continue to live a traditional lifestyle. We then took a boat over to Isla Amantani, where we spent the night with local families. The families live in very basic homes with no electricity or running water and they maintain a very traditional lifestyle. In the evening, we were dressed up in local costumes for a fiesta with the whole community. It was a really amazing experience and I absolutely loved my family. They had three small children, who were obsessed with asking us about country capitals. They also had a baby named Elvis, which I thought was hilarious.
Today, we took the boat back to Puno where we are staying the night. Tomorrow, we drive to Cusco to get ready for the Inca Trail. Really looking forward to that, although the altitude is making even the most basic physical activity feel like torture!
Love,
Sarah
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Lima Bean
I made it safely to Peru and have finally found a free moment to update. The past week or so has been hectic and amazing.
After Cuenca, we had a long drive into Peru and arrived at Punta Sal, which is tiny beach town close to the larger town of Mancora. The beach was beautiful and nearly empty, so we camped on the beach instead of staying the hostel. On our first night, we met up with the other Oasis truck and had a party on the beach.
The next day, we went into Mancora in the morning to do some shopping. I was on cook group for dinner, so my group and I went into the fish markets to buy food. It was a very authentic experience and a lot of fun. In the afternoon, we all relaxed on the beach. In the evening, we celebrated a birthday for a girl on our truck with a "tribal" themed party. Not very PC, but a blast.
On Friday, we left Punta Sal and bushcamped just off the road for the night. On the way, we stopped at the Museo Tumbas Reales de Spain, which is excellent museum about the Sipan (sp) people, who lived in the Andes before the Incas. Everything was written in Spanish, which was great practice for me, although it is possible that my knowledge of the Sipans is now somewhat confused.
The next day, we had another long drive before stopping to bushcamp. We found an amazing spot to camp, on a cliff overlooking the ocean. On the way there, we stopped at the Chan Chan ruins, which is the largest adobe city in the world and was built by the Chimus, another pre-Incan Andean people.
Finally, we arrived in Lima. I was a bit apprehensive about the city because I hadn't heard great things, but I actually really enjoyed it. We spent two days just wandering around, eating, shopping, and enjoying the incredible colonial architecture in the main plazas. We went out dancing one night, which was tons of fun even though it was a Sunday and we were the only people in the bar.
After two days in Lima, we met up with nine new members of our group and drove to Huacachina, which is a tiny little oasis town in the desert near Ica. We were taken on a fantastic drive through the sand dunes and driven up to the top of the dunes to go sandboarding. It was absolutely incredible, scary, beautiful, and so much fun. After sandboarding, we camped in the desert and had a barbeque. No tents, just slept in the sand. I've never seen stars like what I saw that night and I finally got to see the Southern Cross. It was a really incredible day and night and a definite trip highlight.
Today, we drove to Nasca and went up to see the Nasca Lines. The lines themselves are pretty amazing, but I was in a tiny six-seater plane and was thoroughly nauseaus after a few minutes. But it was still worth it. Tomorrow, we drive to Areqipa and then on the Colca Canyon.
Still having an unbelievable time, but missing everyone!
Lots of love,
Sarah
After Cuenca, we had a long drive into Peru and arrived at Punta Sal, which is tiny beach town close to the larger town of Mancora. The beach was beautiful and nearly empty, so we camped on the beach instead of staying the hostel. On our first night, we met up with the other Oasis truck and had a party on the beach.
The next day, we went into Mancora in the morning to do some shopping. I was on cook group for dinner, so my group and I went into the fish markets to buy food. It was a very authentic experience and a lot of fun. In the afternoon, we all relaxed on the beach. In the evening, we celebrated a birthday for a girl on our truck with a "tribal" themed party. Not very PC, but a blast.
On Friday, we left Punta Sal and bushcamped just off the road for the night. On the way, we stopped at the Museo Tumbas Reales de Spain, which is excellent museum about the Sipan (sp) people, who lived in the Andes before the Incas. Everything was written in Spanish, which was great practice for me, although it is possible that my knowledge of the Sipans is now somewhat confused.
The next day, we had another long drive before stopping to bushcamp. We found an amazing spot to camp, on a cliff overlooking the ocean. On the way there, we stopped at the Chan Chan ruins, which is the largest adobe city in the world and was built by the Chimus, another pre-Incan Andean people.
Finally, we arrived in Lima. I was a bit apprehensive about the city because I hadn't heard great things, but I actually really enjoyed it. We spent two days just wandering around, eating, shopping, and enjoying the incredible colonial architecture in the main plazas. We went out dancing one night, which was tons of fun even though it was a Sunday and we were the only people in the bar.
After two days in Lima, we met up with nine new members of our group and drove to Huacachina, which is a tiny little oasis town in the desert near Ica. We were taken on a fantastic drive through the sand dunes and driven up to the top of the dunes to go sandboarding. It was absolutely incredible, scary, beautiful, and so much fun. After sandboarding, we camped in the desert and had a barbeque. No tents, just slept in the sand. I've never seen stars like what I saw that night and I finally got to see the Southern Cross. It was a really incredible day and night and a definite trip highlight.
Today, we drove to Nasca and went up to see the Nasca Lines. The lines themselves are pretty amazing, but I was in a tiny six-seater plane and was thoroughly nauseaus after a few minutes. But it was still worth it. Tomorrow, we drive to Areqipa and then on the Colca Canyon.
Still having an unbelievable time, but missing everyone!
Lots of love,
Sarah
Monday, November 9, 2009
Jungle Fever
Finally out of the jungle and back to civilization (read: internet).
Our last morning in Banos, I got a bit sick and was sort of ill for the first day in the jungle. But I did not let that stop me from participating in all the available activities, even in the sweltering heat.
From Banos, we drove to Tena, which is a small town in the Ecuadorian Amazon. We took a dugout canoe down the Napo River, an Amazon tributary, to a small lodge. The lodge was fantastic, very "Swiss Family Robinson". All of the rooms were in these raised cabins, like treehouses, and the dining area was on an open porch over the river. Finally, the lodge has its own pet monkey, Mona. She is amazing. She plays and jumps all over people and steals things...just wonderful. She was rescued after her mother was shot by a hunter and when she's a bit older, she'll be sent to a nearby animal reintroduction centre. The owner of the lodge, Tom, was a very interesting man from Nebraska. He was sent to Ecuador with the Peace Corps 20 years ago and never left. He also used to work as the head environmentalist at the Charles Darwin Research Station, which I thought was very cool.
On our first day, we visited Amazoonicas, the animal reintroduction/rehabilitation centre. We did a tour and saw a variety of monkeys, jaguars, ocelots, tucans...lots of stuff. Most of the animals are brought in by people who had kept them illegally and then got sick of them or couldn't handle them anymore, for whatever reason. They are kept in the centre forever or until they can be released back into the wild. Unfortunately, that's an unusual scenario because most wouldn't be able to handle living on their own. I learnt that, in Ecuador, the illegal animal trade ranks just behind the drug trade in terms of illegal markets. The centre is funded entirely by donations and volunteers and I thought it was really amazing.
In the afternoon, we floated down the river on inner tubes, which was fantastic because of the absolutely insane heat and humidity in the jungle. In the evening, we just relaxed, ate, played cards, and laughed at Mona.
The next day, we did a walk through the jungle. We talked a lot about medicinal plants and various types of insects and I ate a lemon ant. It tasted like lemon. The guide also explained a great deal about indigenous Amazonian cultures and practices, which I also found very interesting, particularly with regards to medicine. Indigenous tribes in the area rely mainly on a Shaman for medical care. A Shaman is kind of a spiritual doctor figure and he or she mixes traditional spiritual practices with medicinal plants from the jungle in order to treat people. A local Shaman came to visit the lodge while we were there and talked to us about what he does, how he treats people, how he became a Shaman, etc. Interestingly, even though he believes completely in his power, he said that for severe snake and insect bites, he will only stabilize people before sending them to a hospital. I really enjoyed learning about how traditional practices were fused with more modern ideas, without losing the important aspects of indigenous culture.
On our last day in the jungle, we began the drive to Cuenca. Since it's too far to do in one day, we had our first "bushcamp" on the way. This means stopping at the side of the road and putting up tents wherever you can find a flat patch of grass. Since we were at such a high altitude, it was aboslutely freezing. Even so, I found the whole experience hilarious.
The next morning, we drove to Cuenca, where I am now. We went to the Panama Hat factory in the morning, which was nice and somewhat interesting because I most definitely did not know much about Panama hats before arriving, and then walked around town for the rest of the day. Cuenca is a beautiful, colonial city and even though it's quite big, it's much safer and friendlier than Quito. Today was my last day in Ecuador, as tomorrow we drive to Punta Sal, Peru. Having a fantastic time, but definitely missing home!
Lots of love,
Sarah
Our last morning in Banos, I got a bit sick and was sort of ill for the first day in the jungle. But I did not let that stop me from participating in all the available activities, even in the sweltering heat.
From Banos, we drove to Tena, which is a small town in the Ecuadorian Amazon. We took a dugout canoe down the Napo River, an Amazon tributary, to a small lodge. The lodge was fantastic, very "Swiss Family Robinson". All of the rooms were in these raised cabins, like treehouses, and the dining area was on an open porch over the river. Finally, the lodge has its own pet monkey, Mona. She is amazing. She plays and jumps all over people and steals things...just wonderful. She was rescued after her mother was shot by a hunter and when she's a bit older, she'll be sent to a nearby animal reintroduction centre. The owner of the lodge, Tom, was a very interesting man from Nebraska. He was sent to Ecuador with the Peace Corps 20 years ago and never left. He also used to work as the head environmentalist at the Charles Darwin Research Station, which I thought was very cool.
On our first day, we visited Amazoonicas, the animal reintroduction/rehabilitation centre. We did a tour and saw a variety of monkeys, jaguars, ocelots, tucans...lots of stuff. Most of the animals are brought in by people who had kept them illegally and then got sick of them or couldn't handle them anymore, for whatever reason. They are kept in the centre forever or until they can be released back into the wild. Unfortunately, that's an unusual scenario because most wouldn't be able to handle living on their own. I learnt that, in Ecuador, the illegal animal trade ranks just behind the drug trade in terms of illegal markets. The centre is funded entirely by donations and volunteers and I thought it was really amazing.
In the afternoon, we floated down the river on inner tubes, which was fantastic because of the absolutely insane heat and humidity in the jungle. In the evening, we just relaxed, ate, played cards, and laughed at Mona.
The next day, we did a walk through the jungle. We talked a lot about medicinal plants and various types of insects and I ate a lemon ant. It tasted like lemon. The guide also explained a great deal about indigenous Amazonian cultures and practices, which I also found very interesting, particularly with regards to medicine. Indigenous tribes in the area rely mainly on a Shaman for medical care. A Shaman is kind of a spiritual doctor figure and he or she mixes traditional spiritual practices with medicinal plants from the jungle in order to treat people. A local Shaman came to visit the lodge while we were there and talked to us about what he does, how he treats people, how he became a Shaman, etc. Interestingly, even though he believes completely in his power, he said that for severe snake and insect bites, he will only stabilize people before sending them to a hospital. I really enjoyed learning about how traditional practices were fused with more modern ideas, without losing the important aspects of indigenous culture.
On our last day in the jungle, we began the drive to Cuenca. Since it's too far to do in one day, we had our first "bushcamp" on the way. This means stopping at the side of the road and putting up tents wherever you can find a flat patch of grass. Since we were at such a high altitude, it was aboslutely freezing. Even so, I found the whole experience hilarious.
The next morning, we drove to Cuenca, where I am now. We went to the Panama Hat factory in the morning, which was nice and somewhat interesting because I most definitely did not know much about Panama hats before arriving, and then walked around town for the rest of the day. Cuenca is a beautiful, colonial city and even though it's quite big, it's much safer and friendlier than Quito. Today was my last day in Ecuador, as tomorrow we drive to Punta Sal, Peru. Having a fantastic time, but definitely missing home!
Lots of love,
Sarah
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
First Days on Felicity
Hola! A quick update on the past week or so...
I had my final week of volunteering in Quito and it was a bit sad to leave my family and the kids that I have been working with. Still, I was very excited for a new scene. On Friday, I joined an overland tour driving from Quito to La Paz, on a giant yellow truck named Felicity. Right now, there are 13 other participants on the tour, plus a driver and a tour leader, but we pick up 10 more in Lima. So far, I´m having a great time with the group. Everyone is from either England or Australia, and it makes for a pretty fun-loving crowd. Most people are around my age or a bit older and everyone is getting along really well and having a great time together.
On our first day, we drove to Mitad del Mundo, the centre of the world, which is a small museum on the equator. Basically, they do a series of silly experiments that are meant to demonstrate the unique physical properties of the equator, like the slightly lessened gravitational pull. It was fun and silly and informative.
We spent our first night in Otovalo, a town that boasts the largest indigenous market in South America. It was absolutely massive, with beautiful handicrafts and weird food items. We stayed in Otovalo for two nights, just going out and getting know one another, and then drove to Rio Verde, where we are now.
Rio Verde just next to Banos, where I have already been. But it´s no problem, because I have done completely different things this time around. We are staying in a fantastic hostel/campgrounds just outside the town. It´s really beautiful and there are loads of hammocks overlooking the valleys and forests. On our first night, my cook group was assigned to make dinner. For those of you who know me, you probably know that cooking is not exactly my strong suit. However, I managed to pull off a decent vegetable stir fry. Again, you may know that this is one of 3 dishes in my personal repertoire.
On our first day in Rio Verde, we hiked to Pailon del Diablo, which is a massive waterfall. There are a series of viewing platforms that descend toward the river and a tunnel that you have to crawl through to get behind the waterfall. It was pretty cool, but packed because it was a long weekend in Ecuador.
The next day, we went rafting, which was really amazing. We shot class 4 and 5 rapids, which was both awsome and scary. My raft tipped twice and I fell out on my own once, which was somewhat terrifying because all of the rescue instructions had been delivered to us in very broken English. But we all survived and I had an amazing time.
Today, we took ATVs and motorbikes (ATV for me) for a drive through the mountains. You drive on dirt roads that drop off on one side into huge valleys, which is pretty cool. The scenery was incredible and it was a really fun way to see the surrounding areas. Currently, I am covered in mud and recovering from that experience.
Tonight is our last night in Rio Verde and tomorrow we leave for the jungle. I´m not sure what internet access will be like for me for the next few weeks, but I will try to update when I can. Hope everyone is doing well, please send me an email!
Love,
Sarah
I had my final week of volunteering in Quito and it was a bit sad to leave my family and the kids that I have been working with. Still, I was very excited for a new scene. On Friday, I joined an overland tour driving from Quito to La Paz, on a giant yellow truck named Felicity. Right now, there are 13 other participants on the tour, plus a driver and a tour leader, but we pick up 10 more in Lima. So far, I´m having a great time with the group. Everyone is from either England or Australia, and it makes for a pretty fun-loving crowd. Most people are around my age or a bit older and everyone is getting along really well and having a great time together.
On our first day, we drove to Mitad del Mundo, the centre of the world, which is a small museum on the equator. Basically, they do a series of silly experiments that are meant to demonstrate the unique physical properties of the equator, like the slightly lessened gravitational pull. It was fun and silly and informative.
We spent our first night in Otovalo, a town that boasts the largest indigenous market in South America. It was absolutely massive, with beautiful handicrafts and weird food items. We stayed in Otovalo for two nights, just going out and getting know one another, and then drove to Rio Verde, where we are now.
Rio Verde just next to Banos, where I have already been. But it´s no problem, because I have done completely different things this time around. We are staying in a fantastic hostel/campgrounds just outside the town. It´s really beautiful and there are loads of hammocks overlooking the valleys and forests. On our first night, my cook group was assigned to make dinner. For those of you who know me, you probably know that cooking is not exactly my strong suit. However, I managed to pull off a decent vegetable stir fry. Again, you may know that this is one of 3 dishes in my personal repertoire.
On our first day in Rio Verde, we hiked to Pailon del Diablo, which is a massive waterfall. There are a series of viewing platforms that descend toward the river and a tunnel that you have to crawl through to get behind the waterfall. It was pretty cool, but packed because it was a long weekend in Ecuador.
The next day, we went rafting, which was really amazing. We shot class 4 and 5 rapids, which was both awsome and scary. My raft tipped twice and I fell out on my own once, which was somewhat terrifying because all of the rescue instructions had been delivered to us in very broken English. But we all survived and I had an amazing time.
Today, we took ATVs and motorbikes (ATV for me) for a drive through the mountains. You drive on dirt roads that drop off on one side into huge valleys, which is pretty cool. The scenery was incredible and it was a really fun way to see the surrounding areas. Currently, I am covered in mud and recovering from that experience.
Tonight is our last night in Rio Verde and tomorrow we leave for the jungle. I´m not sure what internet access will be like for me for the next few weeks, but I will try to update when I can. Hope everyone is doing well, please send me an email!
Love,
Sarah
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